with almost any digital volt meter. and a printed copy of this test. you can start your electrical diagnosis with this voltage drop test. and if your batteries are in the trunk.. and your engine up front. either make a single long test lead.. or just a jumper cable laying on the floor under the car hooked to only one side at a time. http://i.imgur.com/WMDprhm.jpg and a linked copy to make it easier to print or save to your computer. you will want to print at least one copy for your tool box or wall. http://i.imgur.com/WMDprhm.jpg why perform this voltage drop test. with the engine running and the headlights on. it checks the electrical connections while the electrons are flowing thru the circuit. if you have a loose or dirty connection.. when the power is flowing it will be like a kinked hose. there will be a restriction. so there will be less pressure and flow at the end of the hose. since we are measuring both ends of the same hose while the hose is flowing.. you can measure the frictional resistance to the flow or the resistance to the electrons to flow thru the wire and connections.. why would there be 4/100ths or 2/100ths of a volt when you measure this.. because copper wire has some resistance to it. if you only get 0.04 or 0.02 volts. then you are in good shape.. if you get more.. then you need to narrow the places you measure at .. what.. yes. measure the fastener to the ring terminal.. the ring terminal to the strands of the wire crimped into the ring terminal.. and because i love low riders and many other cars.. here is an additional hint.. when you end up with a hard to crank issue.. perform the voltage drop tests while you are cranking the engine. you will get closer to 1.0 volts on some while cranking because of the draw of the starter.. hint.. you are out and somebody is trying to get their car started.. just for kicks.. break out the jumper cables.. but hook them both to a good spot on the engine.. and both of the other to the negative terminal of the battery in the same car.. this increases the current flow from the negative battery post to the engine block where it will get to the starter housing.. everybody thinks that only the positive is needed.. who needs that old ground wire.. the ground wire is the Negative side of the circuit.. and the side that has the electrons.. hope this helps... download the image while you are here.. it will save you sometime in the future..
with almost any digital volt meter. and a printed copy of this test. you can start your electrical diagnosis with this voltage drop test. and if your batteries are in the trunk.. and your engine up front. either make a single long test lead.. or just a jumper cable laying on the floor under the car hooked to only one side at a time. http://i.imgur.com/WMDprhm.jpg and a linked copy to make it easier to print or save to your computer. you will want to print at least one copy for your tool box or wall. http://i.imgur.com/WMDprhm.jpg why perform this voltage drop test. with the engine running and the headlights on. it checks the electrical connections while the electrons are flowing thru the circuit. if you have a loose or dirty connection.. when the power is flowing it will be like a kinked hose. there will be a restriction. so there will be less pressure and flow at the end of the hose. since we are measuring both ends of the same hose while the hose is flowing.. you can measure the frictional resistance to the flow or the resistance to the electrons to flow thru the wire and connections.. why would there be 4/100ths or 2/100ths of a volt when you measure this.. because copper wire has some resistance to it. if you only get 0.04 or 0.02 volts. then you are in good shape.. if you get more.. then you need to narrow the places you measure at .. what.. yes. measure the fastener to the ring terminal.. the ring terminal to the strands of the wire crimped into the ring terminal.. and because i love low riders and many other cars.. here is an additional hint.. when you end up with a hard to crank issue.. perform the voltage drop tests while you are cranking the engine. you will get closer to 1.0 volts on some while cranking because of the draw of the starter.. hint.. you are out and somebody is trying to get their car started.. just for kicks.. break out the jumper cables.. but hook them both to a good spot on the engine.. and both of the other to the negative terminal of the battery in the same car.. this increases the current flow from the negative battery post to the engine block where it will get to the starter housing.. everybody thinks that only the positive is needed.. who needs that old ground wire.. the ground wire is the Negative side of the circuit.. and the side that has the electrons.. hope this helps... download the image while you are here.. it will save you sometime in the future..